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Jewish Cooking in America: Expanded Edition (Knopf Cooks American), by Joan Nathan

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About the Author

Joan Nathan was born in Providence, Rhode Island. She graduated from the University of Michigan, where she eventually received a master’s degree in public administration from Harvard University. For three years she lived in Israel, where she worked for Mayor Teddy Kollek of Jerusalem. In New York, she founded the Ninth Avenue Food Festival. Ms. Nathan wrote for the Washington Post for eight years and currently contributes articles on international ethnic food and special holiday features to the New York Times, Food Arts, Gourmet, and the B’nai B’rith International Jewish Monthly. She is the author of An American Folklife Cookbook and coauthor of The Flavor of Jerusalem. Ms. Nathan lives in Washington, D.C., with her husband and their three children.

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Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

Soufganiyot—Israeli Hanukkah Jelly DoughnutsAbout 24 doughnuts Every baker in Israel worth his dough makes thse jelly doughnuts for Hannukkah. Soufganiya, the modern Israeli word for a doughnut stuffed with jam, also called ponchik in Russian, comes from the Gree sufgan ("puffed," "fried," and "spongy") and from the Hebrew sofiget ("water) and sofeg ("to blot"). It is typical of new Israeli words that they are sometimes inspired by the Arabic, by the Hebrew, or by other languages, and sometimes just invented; but they are all deeply discussed by the Academy of the Hebrew Language before being incorporated into the lexicon. In the beginning, a soufganiya consisted of two rounds of dough sandwiching some jam, but the jam always fell out during the frying. Today, with new injectors on the market, balls of dough can be deep-fried first and then injected with jam before being rolled in sugar. This is a much easier and quicker way of preparing the doughnuts, and no jam escapes during cooking. This recipe is adapted from that of Bulgarian-born Sophi Ashkenazi, one of Tel Aviv's leading caterers. It is perhaps the only distinctly Israeli holiday dish. 1 package dry yeast3 tablespoons sugar1/4 cup lukewarm water3 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (about)1/2 cup lukewarm milk1 large egg1 large egg yolkPinch of saltGrated zest of 1 lemon3 1/2 tablespoons butter, at room temperatureVegetable oil for deep-fryingApricot jam, about 1/2 cupConfectioners' or granulated sugar for rolling 1. Dissolve the yeast and 1 tablespoon of the sugar in the water. Let sit for 10 minutes. 2. Put the flour in the bowl of a food processor equipped with a steel blade. Add the dissolved yeast, milk, whole egg, yolk, salt, lemon zest, and the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Process until blended. Add the butter and process until the dough becomes sticky yet elastic. 3. Remove the dough to a bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm place for at least an hour. If you want to prepare it ahead, as I often do, place the dough in the refrigerator overnight, then let it warm to room temperature before rolling and cutting. 4. Dust a pastry board with flour. Roll the dough out to a 1/2-inch thickness. Using the top of a glass, cut into rounds about 2 inches in diameter and roll these into balls. Cover and let rise 30 minutes more. 5. Pour 2 inches of oil into a heavy pot and heat to 375 degrees. 6. Drop the doughnuts into the oil, 4 or 5 at a time. Cook about 3 minutes on each side, turning when brown. Drain on paper towels. Using an injector (available at cooking stores), insert a teaspoon of jam into each doughnut. You can also use a turkey baster, first softening the jam in a food processor. Simply push a knife halfway into the doughnut to cut a slit, then put the turkey baster into the slit and squeeze out the jam. Roll the soufganiyot in confectioners' or granulated sugar and serve immediately. FLUFFY MATZAH BALLS about 12 large, soft matzah balls If you like light, airy matzah balls, you'll like this recipe. It's my son David's favorite, especially when his grandmother makes the matzah balls. 4 large eggs 2 tablespoons chicken fat or vegetable oil 1/2 cup seltzer; club soda, or chicken broth 1 cup matzah meal Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste1. Mix the eggs well with a fork. Add the chicken fat or oil, soda water, matzah meal, and salt and pepper and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for several hours. 2. Dip your hands in cold water and make about 12 balls slightly smaller than Ping-Pong balls. 3. Bring water to a boil in a large pot. Add salt and place the matzah balls in the water. Cover and simmer about 30 minutes or until soft. Tip: I often make chicken soup and matzah balls ahead. After cooking the matzah balls I just place them in the warm soup, which I then freseze. The liquid keeps them fluffy. I defrost the soup, reheat, and serve. If you like them more al dente, use large eggs and cook a shorter time. Note: To reduce the cholesterol in this receipe, use 2 egg whites and 2 whole eggs as well as canola oil.

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Product details

Series: Knopf Cooks American

Hardcover: 544 pages

Publisher: Knopf; Revised ed. edition (September 8, 1998)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 0375402764

ISBN-13: 978-0375402760

Product Dimensions:

6.5 x 1.8 x 9.6 inches

Shipping Weight: 2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

4.4 out of 5 stars

28 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#418,605 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

The recipes are nice, the book could be a little more well laid out. It’s strictly American Jewish recipes, I thought they would at least somewhat resemble Jewish food. They for the most part don’t. However, if you are looking for new kosher dishes, it’s a great option. All of the recipes I’ve tried have turned out beautifully.

Glad to know, that some of my mom's stsyle of cooking, from the 1950's, is still the norm, in many Jewish households. I still make these recipies, from scratch, following the recipes. in this book. I was so glad, to find some more authentic recipes, that I could not get anywhere's else.

Jewish cooking has such a rich and fascinating history, and Joan Nathan does it justice in this comprehensive history and collection of Jewish recipes from all over the world. The cultural and historical information--arranged chronologically--is fascinating, and were that all the book offered, it would be enough. But the recipes are wonderful as well: Nathan offers recipies for all levels of cooking experience and bravado, and the anecdotes that accompany the recipes are delightful. I've thrown together the fluffy (and, yes, they are) matzoh balls and (mercifully in a separate meal) the eggplant/pepper kugel at the last minute and been just delighted with the results. And there are recipes as well for the more experienced, adventuresome cook. If I were allowed only one Jewish cookbook, this might very well be the one I'd choose.

I ordered this as a replacement ft. Ir my well-worn copy which somehow got misplaced in our move. I'm delighted with the expanded edition, and that it arrived in time for Passover. Many of the recipes are old favorites, and I look forward to trying the new ones. The stories that go along with the recipes are delightful, as well.

Everything I remember from my childhood in the Bronx. There are a lot of dishes that you can't find in Souith Carolina and I like to cook

The best part of this book is the history of Jewish foods and food manufacturers in this country. Love the old ads! Still need to try some of her recipes, but Joan Nathan is a really good resource for Jewish recipes. I just made her Friday night Brisket from another book. I had never made brisket, and it was like having her in the kitchen to show me how to do it.

This book contains excellent, delicious recipes. The directions are clear and easy to follow. The histories that accompany the recipes bring a tie to people and families long gone. These petite biographies give the bookanother aspect...a touch of literature.

I enjoy reading and cooking from this book, but the index on the back is so bad. I got so frustrated just trying to find things from reading the index. When I looked up challah, there's is several pages for it, but non of them is the challah recipe. Those pages was for something else not related to challah. The only way that worked for me was to look through the book, page for page to look for recipes to cook. Another con about the book is there is no pictures of the food, just people and places.

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